View Archive Tricks of the Trade Vol.2 #7

STUDIO SERVICES

Are you shopping underground?

Returns the most loathsome part of your job?

Afraid you'll be left holding the bag? You could.

A report in from NY, from a stylist: in the course of a stock project, purchased clothing from Express, a national chain. After the shoot, back to Express with her returns, receipt and the unused, unworn and properly tagged clothing, the nightmare we all imagine, her return was denied. Express had scanned her driver's license at the time of purchase and used that information, along with her receipt to classify her as a consumer with suspicious spending patterns.

She was told that she was not eligible for any further returns at that time. She was over the limit.

The past year has brought some new developments in the world of professional shopping. While some retailers, like Emporio Armani, are marketing directly to wardrobe stylists, others that have offered studio services, like Nordstrom's, have discontinued it. At the same time, data collection agencies, such as The Return Exchange, are helping national retailers watch their bottom line by managing the amounts of returns a specific customer can make.

Propville.com, contacting The Return Exchange, spoke with Mark Hilinski, one of its founders, who explained, "The Return Exchange was founded to curb fraudulent returns." In a country where 20% of all clothing purchased, is returned, and companies operate on a small margin, banking that volume will fill the difference, all returns count. Mark went on to say that wardrobe and prop stylists were essentially the "dolphins in the tuna nets." What does this mean to pro shoppers, stylists and production assistants?

A little history, a little math:
Stylists represent a notable market share for retailers. According to a recent survey, one quarter of San Francisco production stylists' annual purchases added up to more than $50K per stylist, 75% falling between 10-20 thousand, annually. Add it all together and multiply by the number of stylists that you know, it's a Chunk O'Change.

The same survey showed, 50% of stylists shop at stores where they hope to appear as wallpaper, hidden among the masses. Counting anonymity as a shield, may have worked in the past, but with a data tracking system, retailers can put a face (drivers' license number) to a purchase (and a return). According to The Return Exchange, great protections are taken to be sure that retailers choose criteria that is driven only by spending patterns. This includes large purchases with equally large returns.

So how can we avoid this personal nightmare? A retailer is using The Return Exchange program, is supplied with a sticker, much like Telechek©, to be displayed at the register. Most stores also print their return policy on the back of the receipt. Simply, it's a wise practice to always familiarize yourself with the return policies of stores where you shop. (Be sure to check for "store credit only", it's confusing for invoicing.)

What is your intention?

There is an element of self-entitlement that exists in some individuals. "I'm spending money, therefore I am entitled to return what ever I choose". Retailers are not bound to take back any merchandise. It is not an unalienable right; it's a privilege. The retailers foot the bill for stocking, pricing, checking, bagging and then returning, restocking and in some cases, re-pricing: many man-hours for no profit.

How do we make it right? Whenever possible use "Studio Services" or "Studio Loans". This involves making an appointment, checking out the "Purchases" with a staff member and supplying a credit card and Business card to verify your status. Upon returning the merchandise, you will be responsible for 20% (average) of the total purchase. This presents a choice of wardrobe for your clients and incentive to return only unused items. Studio Services allows gifting to talent and agency folk alike, and a reputable way for a stylist to do business. The best way to discover who offers studio services is to check by phone before you shop.

Here are a few retailers who welcome our business:
Emporio Armani is actively promoting the use of studio services. A letter in August 2004,Armani invited stylists to use Armani apparel in upcoming projects. Contact Denis at (415) 677-9400.

Macy's in Union square has studio loans thru MBA. They exclude shoes and accessories but please call Michelle at 397-4607, to make an appointment, 7 days a week, 10-6.

No longer offering studio loans: Nordstrom and The Gap. Additionally, J.Crew will consider individual cases. Access is granted at the store level and is subjective. Most of these retailers track returns internally and do not currently have plans to use an outside service. However, Internal tracking does not mean they cannot reject a return. Again, it is discressioary, not a right of the consumer. (barring defects, etc.)

Looking for a guarantee? In response to this obstacle, Propville has started a process of advocating for pro stylists and production staff. Until there is a registry or pre-qualified list for retailers. Honesty is the best policy.

Time. Allow yourself enough time to talk to people, a manager or favorite sales person. Include them as part of the process, rather than as adversary. Be sure to say what you mean and mean what you say. Return merch in the condition you took it. Communicate and follow though on the amounts that you agree to purchase. At the front end of the bid or job-acceptance process, be clear that worn clothing is not returnable, some clothing must be kept, used or not. Be sure to communicate your practices so the producer, photographer or coordinator can budget appropriately.

Good news ……of the polled professionals, half of the veteran respondents stated that they had very few problems making returns, with an average length of time as a pro in the business as 10+ years.

The moral of the story…It's your town, you get to work here. Respect your sources; ease and longevity will be yours. Hold your clients at a moral standard that you can live with, stylists are where the "rubber meets the road" in the land of returns. And yes, white deodorant stains do count!